Frequently Asked Questions

A regular bathtub takes approximately 3-4 hours, a fiberglass bathtub/shower unit takes approximately 5-6 hours and a bathtub with surrounding tile takes approximately 6-7 hours. If a bathtub has been refinished before and needs to be stripped, an additional 2 to 3 hours is needed.

Usually 48 hours, although if you need to use the bathtub sooner, an accelerator can be added to the process. However, there are advantages to the standard 48 hour cure time.

Yes, any color can be changed to any other color, from white to black to black to white. Most people prefer to change a colored bathtub to white for decorating and resale reasons.

As long as the surface is properly cared for, it can last 15 to 20 or more years. You can compare it to a quality car finish, as long as you don’t drop a metal tool on it or clean it with an abrasive cleaner, it will look good for many years.

I exhaust the fumes using a powerful air blower during the refinishing process. This protects both you and me. I must have clean air outside the bathroom for my supplied air respirator to draw from. When the refinishing is completed, I recommend leaving the bathroom exhaust fan running with the window and bathroom door closed.  This maintains air “suction” so that any residual odor doesn’t leave the bathroom. I recommend that young children or sensitive pets be kept away from the area as a precaution.

I can usually schedule refinishing your bathtub within 2-3 weeks of your contacting me.

It is usually best to have everything else completed before refinishing, unless installing a toilet or vanity fixture partially obstructs the bathtub. Also, if you are having a tub/shower area refinished, it is best to wait until after refinishing to complete the wall painting around the tile or fiberglass.

Remove your personal items.

Remove Shower curtains from the bathroom.

Make sure there is a window within 30 feet that opens with the screen removed for exhausting.

A clean bathroom is always appreciated.

Clear a work space near the bathroom in the hallway to make room for needed equipment

Fix any water leaks from your tub?s faucet.

Confirm that electric and water are functioning, and the home heating is functional (in wintertime).

Please do not schedule other work that day, especially any construction activity that creates dust.

Loose tile or grout should be repaired ahead of time

Be sure that all other work that you are planning in the bathroom is completed first i.e. tile and plumbing work. It?s the perfect time to replace your drain and overflow before reglazing.
Wall painting, wallpaper, carpet and shower doors should be done after your bathtub is reglazed. This helps avoid damaging may occur while working around a newly reglazed bathtub with tools, ladders, spills etc.
If a vanity or toilet is closer than 12 inches to your bathtub, you may wish to have it removed before reglazing. This ensures your bathtub is properly sprayed in that area.
If you will be getting your tile walls done around the whole bathroom, you should remove the toilet tank so the tile behind it can be sprayed. (Leave the toilet base attached unless replacing). Of course, any cabinet that might be replaced should be removed.

Your newly refinished bathtub will be shiny and easy to clean. You won’t need to scrub and bleach your bathtub to remove stains. In order to ensure your bathtub remains easy to clean over the years, you should use the following recommended cleaning procedures and products.
Do you want to avoid soap scum? Use a liquid body wash instead of bar soap.
Body wash and shampoo bottles etc. should not be left on bathtubs surface for long periods. Put them in a basket that hangs from the shower head or some place where they can dry out after use.
Do you dislike the strong chemical smell of some bathroom cleaners? Avoid them by using plain water with a “Magic Eraser” or it’s house brand equivalent from Walmart, Target and many other stores. This may well be the easiest way to clean the tub, especially the non-skid area on the bottom (optional).
If you wish to use a chemical cleaner, use a LIQUID cleaner that contains NO ABRASIVES, (even Soft scrub contains some abrasives.)
If you have a problem with hard water leaving mineral stains, you may use a mild acid solution such as a liquid bowl cleaner.
Dripping faucets, if not repaired, eventually damage the refinished surface. Repair leaking faucets to avoid this problem.
 Bath mats with suction cups cannot be used. Other mats even without suction cups should be removed when not using bathtub.
Avoid sharp or heavy objects from striking the surface. If you or a contractor needs to work around or over the bathtub, make sure it is well protected.
If bathing a dog in the bathtub use an anti slip mat or towel laid in the bottom to protect your dog from slipping prevent the bathtub being scratched.

I have no employees, and do all the preparation and finish work personally.

The chemical coating we use is a catalyzed acrylic urethane. Basically, a white (or colored) resin is mixed with a clear catalyst. This starts a chemical reaction that turns the mixture into a shiny, durable material. This is similar to the coating used on your car. After your bathtub is sprayed, the remainder inside the spray gun soon hardens into a solid mass, even without exposure to air.

Doors must be removed prior to refinishing the tub. Tracks can be masked off but we usually recommended that they are removed as well. If you are planning on keeping the door and frame, please call and we can discuss how this best be done.

The next day carefully remove all masking materials. Reinstall hardware. Recaulk the tub using a quality mildew resistant caulk.

No. Most of my customers ask me to include the free nonslip treatment I offer. After arriving on site, I can show you a sample of how this treatment looks and feels.

No. Most bathtub drains have been in place for many years. Replacing it with a new one can be very difficult and may damage your plumbing. We usually recommend leaving it in. You may wish to replace the overflow lever and plate, which isn’t usually a problem. If your drain’s appearance is objectionable, we can adhere a new brass drain over the old one. See New Drain.

Usually this isn’t needed. I can almost always give an estimate over the phone, after asking you a few questions.